Houstons source for info on custom decorative concrete, drivewayS, patios, Stamped/patterned concrete, admixtures for concrete. Also offer links to other related resources

Friday, December 24, 2004

Houston Paving, Pavers, Interlocking Pavers, Paver Installation, concrete pavers, paving and deck installations

Houston Paving, Pavers, Interlocking Pavers, Paver Installation, concrete pavers, paving and deck installations
If you're in the market for a new driveway, patio or pathway, check out some of the new stamped concrete
pavers available. As pavers and decorative paving systems, concrete has made enormous strides in recent
years. Precast stamped concrete pavers, concrete stamping, stenciling, coating and more have given
concrete paving great character and visual interest at relatively affordable prices.

Building a Patio that Will Last Forever

Mortarless interlocking pavers are available in a variety of colors, shapes and sizes. Machine-made, they offer
high-strength paving solutions for driveways, walkways and patios floors. Assembled without mortar, they are
typically installed in a shallow bed of sand and, to create a solid interlock, sand is vibrated between the paver
joints, Stamped Concrete however is a viable choice when considering longevity and zero maintenance.
Interlocking Pavers or stone pavers are often set into a sand base by local landscape contractors, however
this method is an unaccepted practice in the construction industry. As a prominent builder in the Houston area
we frown on Pavers set into sand as it provides no support for the paver patio or driveway and translates into
numerous problems for the homeowner. Water intrusion & sedimentary displacement are the most common
deficiencies with stone pavers or brick pavers. Most Experienced builders would prefer to set the pavestones
in a steel reinforced, 5" thick concrete base with a minimum 3" sand expansive granular base. The latter
method will ensure that your pavers will not settle, separate or allow weeds to push through the cracks. And
prevent any Sedimentary displacement that may occur. The pavestone installations that are installed over a
sand base are a blessing in disguise for most Concrete Contractors because sooner or later the homeowner
will have to replace the pavestones with pavers set into soncrete or install a stamped concrete patio or
driveway that outlasts the common paver installation by 50 or more years.

The cost and Pricing of Concrete Pavers
The prices of pavers in recent years have remarkably dropped in cost. The reason for this is the rising and
popular demand for a more cost effective and durable alternative. Pavers look good but installing them over a
sand base is a "look good, feel good" commodity but the reality in Houston Texas is that we have some of the
countries most unstable soil. The cost of installing interlocking pavers into a reinforced concrete base costs
about $12 per square foot versus a dual reinforced stamped concrete patio or driveway only costing about $6
per foot or more for a smaller area, and lasting up to ten times longer.

Refinishing a Wood Deck
A new wood deck provides a warm, handsome connection with the outdoors, adding to a home's beauty and
setting the stage for a world of outdoor activities. But decks take a lot of abuse, both from use and through
continued exposure to weather. After a few years, they become weathered and unfriendly without proper care.

Fortunately, most deck surface problems are cosmetic, not structural because decking is built of durable
woods: usually redwood, cedar, or pressure-treated pine. Redwood and cedar heartwoods have a natural
resistance to termites and decay; pine is pressure-treated with a pesticide to give it insect and decay-blocking
power.

Even so, ultraviolet radiation (UV) from the sun breaks down surface fibers, causing graying and surface
erosion. Moisture encourages surface mildew and causes stains, particularly in damp or humid climates. And
natural extractives in redwood and cedar can discolor the surface.

The road to restoring a deck's great looks is usually simple, regardless of the type of wood used for its
construction. First you clean it, then you diagnose and treat any discoloration. And last, you protect the result
with a durable finish.

Cleaning
Debris that clogs the spaces between deck boards traps moisture, encouraging mildew and rot. Blast out the
debris, using a powerful nozzle on a garden hose, then push out remaining debris with a putty knife or an old
handsaw. Thoroughly scrub the surface with a sudsy mixture of water and laundry detergent, using a stiff fiber
brush on a long handle. Work in small areas and rinse periodically. This may be all it takes to return much of
the wood's natural tone.

For a large deck, you can rent a power washer that delivers 1,200 psi of pressure or less to blast and rinse
the decking. It should have a nozzle that fans an arc of about 25º to 40º. Wearing safety goggles, hold the
nozzle about 6 inches above the deck's surface and spray slowly in line with the wood grain, overlapping your
path. Be careful: the powerful spray can erode soft wood grain. After washing, allow the deck to dry for several
clear days before applying a finish.

Eliminating Discoloration
Several products are available for dealing with discoloration and stains. Commercially-available powder or
liquid-concentrates have a base of non-chlorine bleach or oxalic acid; a detergent may be part of the formula.
Bleach-based products eliminate mildew, acid-based materials handle graying and stains. Some products may
darken woods such as redwood and cedar, so be sure to test any material in an inconspicuous place.

Always wear rubber gloves, goggles, and old clothes when working with these chemicals and follow the
directions explicitly. Caution: Never mix detergent containing ammonia with household bleach; the resulting
fumes can be highly toxic.

Test for mildew by applying a drop of undiluted liquid household bleach to a small, black spot. If the spot
disappears after a minute or two, clean the deck with a mild cleanser (no ammonia) and rinse with a solution of
1 part household liquid bleach to 4 parts water, then rinse with water. For stubborn mildew, mix one cup
trisodium phosphate (TSP) and one cup household liquid bleach in one gallon of water and scrub with a stiff
bristle brush. Rinse after about 15 minutes.

Non-mildew stains are often caused by natural wood extractives or corroding hardware and nails. Familiar,
general graying of the decking is usually the result of surface wood cells that have been broken down by UV
radiation and wear. Bleach used to kill mildew can also leave a surface drab and washed-out.

For these problems, an acid-based deck restoration product is best. You can buy a pre-mixed oxalic acid deck
cleaner or purchase oxalic acid crystals from a hardware store or home-improvement center and mix a solution
of four ounces crystals to one quart water in a non-metallic container. Wearing rubber gloves, eye protection,
and old clothes, apply with a rag to a one board at a time and scrub with a soft brush. Allow to dry, then rinse
with clear water.

You can strip and clean a deck that has an existing stain finish, using a commercial "deck scrub" that you
brush in and rinse off. Follow the label directions.

Finish Treatments
Though some people paint decks with deck paint, most choose to take advantage of the natural beauty of
expensive decking woods by applying a clear or lightly stained finish. If you do choose to paint, use a
stain-blocking oil or alkyd primer first.

In general, the best finishes are those that soak into the wood, not those that provide a surface film. According
to Bill Evans, Technical Coordinator at Thompson & Formby, "A heavily pigmented, solid stain isn't really
recommended for decking because it shows wear patterns and may tend to peel. You want something that
really soaks in. "

There are three important characteristics to look for in a finish. First, the finish should be "water repellent" or
"water proof," not just "water resistant." Second, it should offer UV (ultraviolet) protection. And third, if mildew is
a potential problem, the finish should contain a mildewcide, which a "wood preservative" does. Regular
preservatives should be reapplied once a year; newer and better "toner" products offer more UV protection
and may last up to four years. Whatever product you choose, read the label to be sure it's right for your deck.
Buy quality materials and follow the manufacturer's directions for application. Your result will be a deck that
provides you with years of lasting beauty and enjoyment.







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